Tamiya Lancia Rally, article number 58040 put on sale in 1983 and available on the market until 1985
Analysis of the model to be restored
Restoration began with the chassis alone without body, starting at the front and moving towards the rear, analysis of the chassis revealed that
– new wheels, not dirty or worn; no traces of dirt. Front wheels from the Brat model and rear wheels from The Frog model,
– front bumper is like that of the Subaru Brat and The Frog models,
– front torsion bars with rubber reinforcement on the screws that attach the arms to the front bumper as on the Lancia Rally and Subaru Brat models
– large front plate as for the Lancia Rally and Subaru Brat models,
– long front body support as on the Lancia Rally and Subaru Brat models.
– holes to install the front bumper plate like the second chassis versions of the Lancia Rally, Subaru Brat and The Frog models,
– servo installation orientation as on the Lancia Rally and Subaru Brat models,
– two rear-lateral body supports like those for the Subaru Brat model,
– on/off switch installed on one side as for the Lancia Rally and Subaru Brat models,
– speed control system resistors installed on the right side as for the Lancia Rally and Subaru Brat models
– metallic grey rear shock absorbers as for The Frog model,
– a single antenna as for the Lancia Rally and Subaru Brat models,
– no differential as for the Lancia Rally and Subaru Brat models and
– RS540 motor and pinion gear as for The Frog model.
For the presence of the holes for the front bumper, it is an MK2, we exclude The Frog for: the position of the electric resistors, position of the switch, only one antenna instead of two, no differential and screws with rubber reinforcement for the front torsion bars.
That leaves two papable alternatives: Lancia Rally and Subary Brat.
Together with the chassis comes the Lancia Rally body accessory SP-5203, which includes the central body, two side sockets, glass, front lights, additional front light assembly, rear lights and sticker set.
Sequence of images showing new or restored parts replacing those absent in the source material set, starting with the first image on the left and going towards the second image on the right:
– four wheels and rims,
– RS380 motor with,
– damaged front bumper,
– white plastic front bumper plate,
– L-shaped metal plate for front bumper,
– black shock absorbers,
– special adapter for motor installation and
– metal pins for front bumper
Frame disassembled in its entirety complete with the correct parts for restoration.
Wash all parts with hot water and degreasing kitchen soap and then run a cycle in the ultrasonic washing machine: metal parts for 25 minutes at 70°C and Teflon or plastic parts for 25 minutes at 40°C. Picture sequence showing assembly of parts:
– plastic central frame parts,
– front suspension system,
– wheels and steering,
– rear gearbox parts,
– rear wheels and axles,
– motor with mechanical speed control system and
– electronics with front bumper support consisting of L-bracket and plate
The body is new, only the front bumper is in need of repair, list of materials required to repair the front bumper
– 5 mm diameter ABS tube
– 2 mm thick ABS sheet,
– various ABS and acetone solution with different densities (white cap)
– brush for ABS and acetone solution
– acetone (black cap),
– 800, 1,000 and 1,200 grit paper and
Picture sequence showing front bumper repair:
– cut the 5 mm diameter tube a piece with a 45° cut,
– cut 2 mm thick reinforcing fin from the ABS sheet, using the fin on the opposite side as a template
– weld the two pieces of 5 mm diameter tube at 45° with thick ABS and acetone solution,
– machine the joint of solidified ABS and acetone solution with sandpaper,
– compare the curve of the new piece with the present one,
– cut the long side of the tube to the required length,
– cut the short side of the tube to the required length,
– weld the two 5 mm diameter pieces of pipe to the bumper with a less dense solution of ABS and acetone. The less dense solution ensures that the weld is complete on all surfaces by penetrating better into the cracks,
– rework the welds with dense ABS and acetone solution,
– weld with less dense ABS and acetone solution reinforcement wing and
– work with 800, 1,000 and 1,200 grit sandpaper to homogenise the diameter along the joints.
If the final joint does not have the right finish, apply filler and then work with sandpaper.
Sequence of pictures showing how to colour the body and its parts:
– apply white primer; ‘fine surface primer white’,
– apply white gloss paint to the body and its parts; TS26 “pure white”,
– apply matt white paint to the front bumper; TS27 “matt white”,
– refinish body details such as front grille + door sill + door handle, colour matt black X1; air intake and rear grille, colour rubber black XF85; front – rear direction indicators, colour orange X6; brake lights, colour red X7; body hinges + front indicator reinforcement + door handle, colour matt grey XF80 and
– install rear lights, front lights and front rally light assembly.
Sequence of pictures showing how to colour the driver:
– apply gloss white paint to the helmet; TS26 ‘pure white’,
– apply matt white paint to the driver’s suit; TS27 “matt white”,
– trim the steering wheel, matt black XF1; seat belt buckles, grey XF80; seat belts and gloves, red. In 1983 the winning driver in the Monte Carlo rally was Rohrl; the helmet is white with the Martini sponsor on the chin,
– apply the pink face and
– complete the eyes.
Apply the stickers, the most complex parts are the Lancia logo on the bonnet and the blue-red Martini racing friezes on the bonnet.
To eliminate bubbles and creases, heat the stickers slightly with a hair dryer, avoiding damage to the body paint and the stickers themselves by applying too much heat.
When the adhesive is hot enough, it becomes more workable and bubbles can be removed and the stickers adhere better to the surface.
Install the body on the frames and insert the two front bumper pins.
Pictures showing the finished model.